Pontiac 8.2 carrier
Pontiac 8.2 carrier
Hi Jim , we spoke about a year ago about a 4 pinion HD cone unit that I have in my GTO that has gotten weak . I can’t remember the things you said to check before i yanked it . Backlash & tooth pattern to make sure that the pinion still has the correct preload mayb ? I think that you said to open the unit up and get some pics of the cones - is the ring gear left hand threads ? I believe I have the proper Kent Moore J tool but no idea how to use it .
Re: Pontiac 8.2 carrier
Yep, remove the 8 bolts which are right hand normal thread...leave 2 across from each other and just back those to bolts little by little so they do not snap from the preload force when removing them.... ren=move them each equal amount back and forth across from each other.
now take pictures of the cones bottoms and spider gear teeth.
that should tell us a lot.
now take pictures of the cones bottoms and spider gear teeth.
that should tell us a lot.
J D Race
Re: Pontiac 8.2 carrier
What backlash am I looking for on the dial indicator before I remove the unit ?
Re: Pontiac 8.2 carrier
RING AND PINION about .008 - .010 NO MORE could be slightly less BUT doubt it if it has any kind of mileage.
J D Race
Re: Pontiac 8.2 carrier
Do you check the bearing preload with the carrier removed ? My seal has about 4K miles on it . I’m not entirely sure of the mileage of the unit , it came out of a wrecked GTO in the mid 70s but wasn’t used from 1979-2024.
Re: Pontiac 8.2 carrier
Yah likely the seal is just dried out 
PReload - yes normally the correct preload is with a NEW crush sleeve and the posi or open carrier removed when figuring.
IN THIS case... You should be safe with replacing the seal with some RTV on the outside diameter of the seal to the inside diameter of the housing hole
then install the yoke with a small amount of rtv or we like teflon (liquid aka gas pipe dope) on the spline ID of the yoke.
screw the nut on till snug and tight then give a few snaps of a electric impact... WERE NOT LOOKING to go all gorilla on it...
REMEMBER the lock tight on the nuts after you clean the nut up real good with brake cleaner.
After you have that all tightened and the rear spins and not have bearing bind.... STAKE the nut in place with a steel point sharp punch into the NUT where it tapers to the thread. 180 degree from each other....NOw that should hold it.
YES the proper way is to totally disassemble and install a new crush sleeve etc... BUT we have done it this way for YEAR Sand year... NO issues.
Jim
JD Race
PReload - yes normally the correct preload is with a NEW crush sleeve and the posi or open carrier removed when figuring.
IN THIS case... You should be safe with replacing the seal with some RTV on the outside diameter of the seal to the inside diameter of the housing hole
then install the yoke with a small amount of rtv or we like teflon (liquid aka gas pipe dope) on the spline ID of the yoke.
screw the nut on till snug and tight then give a few snaps of a electric impact... WERE NOT LOOKING to go all gorilla on it...
REMEMBER the lock tight on the nuts after you clean the nut up real good with brake cleaner.
After you have that all tightened and the rear spins and not have bearing bind.... STAKE the nut in place with a steel point sharp punch into the NUT where it tapers to the thread. 180 degree from each other....NOw that should hold it.
YES the proper way is to totally disassemble and install a new crush sleeve etc... BUT we have done it this way for YEAR Sand year... NO issues.
Jim
JD Race
J D Race