Hi, first time posting and I know this isn't really a new topic but................Last weekend i bought an 8.2 rear end for $200 because it had two things I was looking for:
1) the short housing
2) 3.36 gears
It is the factory rear end out of a one owner 1964 Oldsmobile F85. It has not been altered or swapped. That identifies it as an "Oldsmobile".
If I understand the visual identifiers it has the one rib case that identifies it as a "Buick".
if I interpret the axle tube stamp of "P 3.36" that identifies it as a "Pontiac", and I confirmed the ratio on the ring gear 37 11 GM 4 64 K A
so my comment/question is: In 1964 could Oldsmobile have used a Buick case and Pontiac gears stamped "P 3.36" in a F85?
Thanks, Jud
is it a Buick, an Olds or a Pontiac? Or all three
Re: is it a Buick, an Olds or a Pontiac? Or all three
Jud, Good questions.
Well in 1964 -1965 and all the way to 1966 Oldsmobile did not have its own rear differential.
It shared the Buick or the Pontiac rear.
1964 and 1965 were the only 2 years the rears were narrow (54.25" f to f or 60" drum to drum total width) for the Buick and Pontiac rears.
1964
1964 I believe GM only had a BUICK rear small upper control arm bushing rear 1" diameter. ALL Buick Olds and Pontiac A bodys shared the rear first year.
It was used in Buick skylark Olds f85 and Pontiac tempest lemans and GTO
1965
1965 Pontiac created a rear for its higher power GTO and Cutlass's shared this rear in there 442 rears.
The Buick rears and the NEW Pontiac rears had a redesign upper control arm bushing now about 2" in diameter which matched all the other rear control arm bushings.
1966
Then in 1966 The Pontiac rear AGAIN was redesigned and the what we all KNOW NOW as the Pontiac rear with converging cast in webbing to the pinion from the upper control arm bushing ears. The rear was also widen 1" over all or 1/2" on each side.
ALL these rears had flat spring perches which required a retaining cup plate and bolt and nut to hold the lower spring to the rear differential perch mount.
In 1965 and 1966 and 1967 earlier built OLDS the Pontiac designed rears were used in the Higher HP cars like 442, w-30, GTO etc,
Buick used its own modified 8.2 with larger wagon axle bearings for the GS optional rear.
1967
1967 Oldsmobile finally designed a rear and this had 12 bolt cover with 10 bolt ring with a 8.5" diameter ring gear diameter.
This rear was in service till 1970 in the Cutlass's
1967-1968 had a 31 spline optional axle spline for the 3.42 - 5.00 rear rears usually optioned for w cars and 442 HP cars etc.
1969-1970 were 28 spline optional rears only
1970 I believe there was a (RARE) Aluminum center differential for the special 442 / w car option once again.
1971-1972
Gm now looking to stream line the cars looking into the future to tighten the belt....
We have what is still in one form or another a 10 bolt corporate 8.5 rear we have all come to trust in MANY MANY cars and trucks.
this 8.5 rear is STILL in production in GM trucks and SUVs disguised as a 10 bolt 8.625 rear.
Jim
JD Race
Well in 1964 -1965 and all the way to 1966 Oldsmobile did not have its own rear differential.
It shared the Buick or the Pontiac rear.
1964 and 1965 were the only 2 years the rears were narrow (54.25" f to f or 60" drum to drum total width) for the Buick and Pontiac rears.
1964
1964 I believe GM only had a BUICK rear small upper control arm bushing rear 1" diameter. ALL Buick Olds and Pontiac A bodys shared the rear first year.
It was used in Buick skylark Olds f85 and Pontiac tempest lemans and GTO
1965
1965 Pontiac created a rear for its higher power GTO and Cutlass's shared this rear in there 442 rears.
The Buick rears and the NEW Pontiac rears had a redesign upper control arm bushing now about 2" in diameter which matched all the other rear control arm bushings.
1966
Then in 1966 The Pontiac rear AGAIN was redesigned and the what we all KNOW NOW as the Pontiac rear with converging cast in webbing to the pinion from the upper control arm bushing ears. The rear was also widen 1" over all or 1/2" on each side.
ALL these rears had flat spring perches which required a retaining cup plate and bolt and nut to hold the lower spring to the rear differential perch mount.
In 1965 and 1966 and 1967 earlier built OLDS the Pontiac designed rears were used in the Higher HP cars like 442, w-30, GTO etc,
Buick used its own modified 8.2 with larger wagon axle bearings for the GS optional rear.
1967
1967 Oldsmobile finally designed a rear and this had 12 bolt cover with 10 bolt ring with a 8.5" diameter ring gear diameter.
This rear was in service till 1970 in the Cutlass's
1967-1968 had a 31 spline optional axle spline for the 3.42 - 5.00 rear rears usually optioned for w cars and 442 HP cars etc.
1969-1970 were 28 spline optional rears only
1970 I believe there was a (RARE) Aluminum center differential for the special 442 / w car option once again.
1971-1972
Gm now looking to stream line the cars looking into the future to tighten the belt....
We have what is still in one form or another a 10 bolt corporate 8.5 rear we have all come to trust in MANY MANY cars and trucks.
this 8.5 rear is STILL in production in GM trucks and SUVs disguised as a 10 bolt 8.625 rear.
Jim
JD Race
J D Race
Re: is it a Buick, an Olds or a Pontiac? Or all three
Thanks Jim, that was great information that confirms I have a 1964 8.2. I’ve purchased an Auburn posi unit for it to go with the B&M girdle and an axle tube brace kit that will need some modifying to bolt to the girdle. I plan on using the stock 28 spline axles since the car will only be street driven - is that a mistake?
Re: is it a Buick, an Olds or a Pontiac? Or all three
No .... mistakes... As long as your using good NEW parts you likely can not go wrong.
Doubt you need all the extra stuff cover bars etc. On the street that rear will hold just fine.
Stay away from rough uneven bumpy roads for burn outs and do not slide into curbs going around corners etc. You will be good:)
The set up on the rear is what will make MOST any part live....this includes engines transmissions and rear ends.
Take your time get the right pattern in the gear mesh and get your pinion and carrier preloads right
BACKLASH setting .006-.010 and it should last a good long time.
NEW gears will need a bit of break in time
We use the SHORT RUN and LONG cool down method of break in on gears.
1st run 5 min come back check for leaks and cool it for 1/2 hour.
Next run 10mins run and 1 hour shut down
do 3-4 more 10 min runs and 1 hour shut down
After that you can start taking longer runs again building confidence in the rear and soon you will not even think about it anymore.
Most metal parts on cars in engines and transmissions love heat up and cool down on NEW METAL PARTS...your seasoning them like baking them in an oven.
Enjoy your car.... World is a crazy place now and future is uncertain for sure. LIVE. But do not infringe on others!
Jim
JD Race
Doubt you need all the extra stuff cover bars etc. On the street that rear will hold just fine.
Stay away from rough uneven bumpy roads for burn outs and do not slide into curbs going around corners etc. You will be good:)
The set up on the rear is what will make MOST any part live....this includes engines transmissions and rear ends.
Take your time get the right pattern in the gear mesh and get your pinion and carrier preloads right
BACKLASH setting .006-.010 and it should last a good long time.
NEW gears will need a bit of break in time
We use the SHORT RUN and LONG cool down method of break in on gears.
1st run 5 min come back check for leaks and cool it for 1/2 hour.
Next run 10mins run and 1 hour shut down
do 3-4 more 10 min runs and 1 hour shut down
After that you can start taking longer runs again building confidence in the rear and soon you will not even think about it anymore.
Most metal parts on cars in engines and transmissions love heat up and cool down on NEW METAL PARTS...your seasoning them like baking them in an oven.
Enjoy your car.... World is a crazy place now and future is uncertain for sure. LIVE. But do not infringe on others!
Jim
JD Race
J D Race